Mention ‘the Philippines’ and foreigners will most likely say “Boracay!” as one of the country’s main attractions. So when I went on an island hopping Philippine trip, I decided to see if Boracay really is worth all the titles and the hype.
Prior to this visit in May, the last time I was in Boracay was 2003. And before that, I’ve been there about 3 more times. When I first went in 1992, Boracay was virtually unknown. It was such a trek to get there. We came from Iloilo, and from Iloilo a van ride from hell to get to Kalibo. Then another back-breaking journey to Caticlan, and then by boat to Boracay Island. This was 1992 and the roads weren’t paved, shock abosrbers in vans were optional and our air conditioning broke down but the moment our feet touched the powdery white sands of Boracay, my 11-year old self then knew that Paradise existed.
Back then, accommodation in Boracay were just nipa huts turned into make-shift accommodation/inns. We stayed in a hut that wasn’t beach front. We had to walk about 10 minutes from shore to the cottage. But the waters, they were just unbelievable. And it felt like we were the only ones in the island.
Fast forward to 1997. Boracay was by then starting to make its name around the tourism circles. Transportation was much easier, domestic flights from Manila were more frequent. Modern accommodation can now be found. This was the best Boracay trip I can remember. The slightest touch of civilisation in the island but the waters were still crystal clear. And most of all, it wasn’t crowded. Since then I frequented Boracay during my University days, with my latest visit in December of 2003.

In 2003, Boracay was already crowded and commercialised. Bars and nightclubs came alive at nighttime. But it was still a good break and respite coming from Manila. Semestral Break? Boracay! Christmas Break? Boracay! Summer break? Boracay! Thesis done? Boracay! I found all excuses to go to Boracay.


Obviously, I loved Boracay all those years for me to keep coming back almost year after year. There was a time between 2001-2003 when the waters were almost all GREEN from algae (those who frequented Boracay at that time would remember!) and you have to swim a fair bit away from the shore to get to clear waters. In the last 10 years, Boracay has been the ‘place to see and be seen’ in the Philippines. Acting like the unpopular plain best friend, I shied away from Boracay all this time as it became more and more popular. I felt like the young and innocent beach that I once knew in 1992, now just opened her arms for everyone and anyone who wanted to party.
I was given the opportunity to visit the island again last May and I managed to squeeze it in between my island hopping trips. Although it was scheduled at the last minute, I thought it would be a good idea to reunite with an old flame, and see if the ‘spark’ is still there…
Now here is how I find Boracay 10 years later.
GETTING THERE

Getting to Boracay from Manila has come a long long way. Whereas last time we had to seek arrangements by word-of-mouth (ie if a cousins’ distant relative knew of a van service, boat, etc), now it’s almost easier to arrive in Boracay than it is to hail a cab in Metro Manila. Along with the domestic carriers arriving into Caticlan with several flights daily, it’s also easier to book flights via the Internet.
From the airport, you can easily catch a taxi/van service to the pier, where several boats can be used to get to the actual island of Boracay. Depending on the hotel you book, some chains and properties have their own van service and speedboats to pick you up and take you straight to your hotel room.
It’s now much easier, more convenient and affordable to get to Boracay. Perhaps way too accessible, which leads me to my next point…
CROWDS


SAND / SHORELINE



WATERS

Boracay’s hasn’t lost its famous blue waters. If anything, it became even more stark and attractively hued. However, I was disappointed with the quality and feel of the water. Last time, you used to be able to see fish in that depth (photo above). Now it’s just cloudy. And the water, there’s a slight slick feel to it, which is not really surprising with the amount of motorised boats coming in and out. And while the water wasn’t dirty, there was just way too many people swimming .I quickly left the moment I heard (and saw) the group of tourists next to us hawk and spit in the water.
The next day, we took up one of the island hopping tours and we were brought to Crocodile Island, one of the popular islands to snorkel. First, when we arrived, there was a traffic jam of boats with each boat taking turns for its passengers to jump in and snorkel. When we had our turn, the waters by then were so choppy with strong undercurrents that it was difficult to explore far from the boat.
And as if that wasn’t bad enough (the traffic, not the choppy waters), here’s what I found underneath
deserted corals that were almost dying. I’m not surprised that the fish are gone. If I were a fish and hundreds of boats came my way every day, I’d be out of there too!

Seeing the corals like this, and knowing that it once hosted a thriving and alive marine life, was very sad and disconcerting.
SURROUNDING ISLANDS
There are lots of smaller surrounding islands in Boracay. One of the best ones is Puka Beach. I was surprised that it was still abit secluded considering the crowds back in Crocodile Island and Boracay. If you go to Boracay, ask the boatmen to take you Puka Beach as it still has retained its privacy from when I remember it last. The waters are nice to swim in but still no marine life present.

NIGHTLIFE / FOOD
Foodies and party animals will rejoice in Boracay. Name any restaurant or fast food joint that’s in Manila, chances are they will have a branch in Boracay. While this makes things very convenient, it does not make me happy seeing Boracay, especially the “D’Mall” area turn into such a giant commercialised island.
This is a typical scenario during dinner time at the beach road. Throngs of tourists in a dilemma where to eat given the plethora of restaurants in Boracay. Live music is provided in almost all restaurants to attract the crowd. Bars and clubs also abound Boracay. I don’t mind a few choices of restaurants but is it really necessary to turn Boracay into a mini-Manila? On my last visit, it wasn’t this commercialised. The restaurants were there yes and they were all the grill and seafood type. Nevertheless, there’s still an abundance of fresh seafood everywhere in Boracay.
NOTE:
While I complain about the crowds, there’s also an advantage to that. What are the chances of bumping into someone you know in Boracay? LOTS. On our second day, I ran into my highschool friend, who also happened to be staying in the same hotel! Thanks for the serendipitous reunion, Boracay!
Now let’s get to the conclusion and bottomline of this post:
Is Boracay really the world’s best island?
NO.It once was, but Not at the moment. To me it all boils down to over-commercialisation. It’s a cycle. The more people visit the island, the more commercial it becomes, the more threatened the marine life and quality of water is. Hence why I mentioned that the best time (and in my books, the time it was the best island in the world) was 1997, when it still had much fewer people and the corals were much more alive. I wish to bring back the Boracay I once knew.
Sadly in this reunion, it was the kind that you recongise your old friend very well, she still has her old mannerisms and nuances that you find endearing. But alas, she also now listens to Justin Bieber and K-Pop, dyed her hair blonde because that’s what the popular girls do. And you just leave it at that, and hold on to the better memories of the past.
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OMG! What happened to Boracay?!!
The first time that our family went there for a much needed vacation was in July 1990. You can hardly see any house, even accommodation is scarce. When you go to the beach, you can say that the entire beach is yours! Go nude, jump, flip over, nobody cares! There were some European tourists in some parts but that’s it. I really enjoyed Boracay that time, and I said to myself that I’ll be back again.
Come 1996. I was in college and was a sales agent of Fil-Estate Realty Development Corp at the same time. They sent us to Boracay to see their project, so we can have an idea of what we will be offering to prospective buyers. To my surprise, Boracay evolved into a commercialized beach! And our project is a luxurious one that will really make Boracay a more expensive place! Though we spent 3 days there and explored, I no longer enjoyed my stay.
I like the old Boracay much better. And now that you’ve posted all these pictures, I think I’ll never go back there again! Better explore new places, those unspoiled beaches being featured in some tv shows back home. There’s this Calaguas Island, Caramoan Island, Borawan, and this Alibijaban Island in Quezon that looks very inviting, seeing the pictures from those who went there. For me, Boracay is a “passè” already. I’d rather explore (and not exploit) other new places in the Philippines. C’mon! We have more than 7,000 islands to explore!
Hi Ivan! (ehem Mayor 🙂 thanks for sharing! Yes nothing compares to the Boracay of the early 90’s when it was still unexplored. Me too I probably won’t come back to Boracay anymore unless I have to. I did visit Caramoan (3rd and last island of my Philippine trip), and it was amazing, stay tuned for the coming posts 🙂
What was your project back in 1996? I remember Club Panoly and Fairways/Bluewaters back in the day. Nowadays if you really want to enjoy Boracay, you have to pay for it (like Shangrila) but I agree, why spend a fortune on an overly commercialised place when there’s 7000 islands more to explore! I want to see Siargao one day too.
Hi Ivan! (ehem Mayor 🙂 thanks for sharing! Yes nothing compares to the Boracay of the early 90′s when it was still unexplored. Me too I probably won’t go back to Boracay anymore unless I really have to. I did visit Caramoan (3rd and last island of my Philippine trip), and it was amazing, stay tuned for the coming posts ! 🙂
What was your project back in 1996? I remember Club Panoly and Fairways/Bluewaters back in the day. Nowadays if you really want to enjoy Boracay, you have to pay for it (like Shangrila) but I agree, why spend a fortune on an overly commercialised place when there’s 7000 islands more to explore! I want to see Siargao one day too.
That’s our project, Fairways & Bluewaters. Dunno if Club Panoly still exists. By the way, since I’m also a travel addict, I call myself “Byaherong Lakwatsero” so that I have my own identity. I just post my pictures in facebook coz it’s much cheaper. Hehehe… I don’t really go to the “tourist spots” that much. I explore more the everyday life of the people who live in those places that I visit, and try to understand their way of life. I believe that there are more to “see” from the tourist spots than meets the eye, so I really explore.
I’ll be waiting for more visits and posts from you so that when its my time to go there, I know what to do. Thank you!
hi. i really enjoyed browsing ur site. and it helped me alot. i was just really shocked about Boracay. I and hubby are planning to visit Boracay this may to have some r&r. but i was a little disappointed seeing those crowd. can u please recommend good beach for some r&r? thanks!
Hi Krystel thank you Im glad you enjoyed the browse! Yes Boracay really disappointed me big time, most especially because I loved it so much before. If your type of R & R is crowds, music, lots of bars and cafes then its ok to go but if you love abit of quietness and time away from ‘civilization’ and great marine life, I would recommend Coron 🙂 Read my post about it hope it gives you ideas. http://www.holysmithereens.com/2013/06/things-i-did-in-coron-that-made-me-fall-in-love-with-it-big-time/
One of the best articles I’ve read about my favorite beach – Boracay. I’ve been going to Boracay with my family regularly since 2003, and reading your post evokes in me goosebumps and nostalgia.
I can see that you know how to present your topic very well – clear, brief, straight to the point, in a highly readable style of fluent English. And your pictures? Superb. It speaks a thousand words, adding clarity and effective description to your narrative.
In sum, you let the reader join you as you savor the pleasure and share your excitement of travel and exploration of the wonderful places you visited.
In addition, I can see that you write better than the many professional writers in newspapers and magazines’ lifestyle and travel sections. If there is blog award for the best travel blog in Asia, I will nominate your blog without ifs and buts.
Eli thank you for your very kind words! It’s good to know that someone appreciates the way I tell my travel stories. I always lay it out the easiest way possible and to always be objective – both the good And the bad in every place and review I make. I do hope you continue joining me on my narratives, there’s so much more to come 🙂
I loved Baguio City before SM Baguio opened.
The best time for me was the 2nd year of the Panagbenga. Nobody except Baguio residents knew of the festival. I went there on a business trip and was pleasantly surprised that Baguio to realize the city was in the middle of a flower festival. It was like a scene from Europe in the spring time. With the city’s huge student population, love was in the February air. Session Road was closed to traffic, decorated with flowers, and couples in love strolled as though they were in a world of their own.
Hi Homer, I have heard of Penagbenga, but haven’t really experienced it. I can imagine it must be such a unique experience for you, how lucky you were sent there at such an opportune time 🙂
Hi there Jean
Got a quick question, if you could answer it for me possibly.
When were these pics taken?
Looking to go at the beginning of Dec, and hoping not to come across such heavy crowds.
Will i be lucky?
Hi Yasmin, these were taken in May. Though December is also peak season (but not as much as May hopefully!) Good luck and have fun on your trip, make the most out of it 🙂
I was in Boracay in early June. Those green Algae were all over the white beach, except for Diniwid beach. My friend was there in May and he says that it was even more intense.
Is this a seasonal issue occuring each year around this months or will Boracay face this dirt all year along from now on ?
Hi Faith, I was just there early this month and there were no green Algaue. I noticed though that they’d be there during more peak seasons. I think from the influx of boats coming in and out of the island.